Roof Replacement - Cheek Wall

Under a previous post I described how we were able to replace a portion of the roof that covered the rear porch that we are converting to a dining room.




Photo 1



One of the main reasons for the urgency in replacing this portion of the roof was recent ice dams and subsequent water damage to the porch's framing.  One of valleys on the porch dumps rain water into the house wall.  There was an attempted repair to this area in the way of roofing cement. (Photo 1)



As part of the roof replacement we included stripping the house cheek wall so we could properly flash the area.



Photo 2



Photo 2 shows the roof and house wall stripped and the damage to the sheathing.  We replaced the piece of sheathing (Photo 3) and then ran ice and water on the sheathing and up the wall (Photo's 4 and 5).  As part of installing the roof shingles against the wall is step flashing as well.

Most companies would not go the extra yard of removing the siding to properly flash the house wall.  This little bit of extra work goes a long way towards giving the homeowners the best job we could provide.







Photo 3





Photo 4





Photo 5

And finally a couple of completed roof pictures with the siding re installed (we replaced the corner post so everything would match).

Please visit Ramelli Building & Remodeling, LLC for more information.  You can also email Ray or call 203 741 0005.

Roof Replacement

During a rear porch conversion, it became apparent that finishing a room under a roof that has had water issues was not a great idea.  The homeowners had plans of replacing the whole roof next year.  We offered to just replace the roof slopes connected to the rear porch so that we could all be assured that their new room would face ice damming and leak issues.

Hopefully, the homeowners will hire us back next year to complete the roof.  But, in any case we feel good about our decision to save the homeowners some money this year (by only replacing some of the roof) and make sure that the new room has a new roof overhead.

Our roofing system uses ice and water shield on the eaves, rakes and valleys.  Ice and water has a sticky backing that adheres to the roof sheathing and seals around the nails that secure the shingles.  Its main job is to protect against ice dams and wind driven rain.

We also include a synthetic underlayment as opposed to tar paper.  The synthetic underlayment weighs less (good for your roof) and helps keep the roof and thus attic cooler - this prolongs the shingle life.  It is also resistant to any mold or mildew growth as well as protects against moisture making it to the roof sheathing.

The ice and water should overlap the drip edge (the bottom metal strip), but be installed under the rake edge (the metal going up the sides).  The rake edge metal then gets installed over the ice and water and synthetic underlayment.  This way any wind driven rain that gets under the shingles from the side will channel down the underlayment (not in contact with the roof sheathing) and drain out the bottom over the drip edge into the gutter.

See the photos to the right.  The top photo shows the ice and water installed on the eaves (bottom of roof) and up the valley.  At the very bottom you can see the white drip edge that the ice and water overlaps.  The bottom photo shows the synthetic underlayment under the rake edge metal (the white showing at the edge of the roof) and overlapped per the manufacturers instructions to shed water all the way down the roof.

Coming up next will be photos of the roof replacement from start to finish

Paint Prep

I thought I would show a few shots of the containment we normally do on paint jobs when we are dealing with a textured (popcorn) ceiling.  In this case, part of the ceiling texture was cracking and peeling. 

The first task was to do a test on the ceiling to see if we could scrape and patch the area in question or if we should scrape the whole ceiling and re paint a flat finish.  It was determined that the ceiling was repainted using a latex paint and would not accept a patch without having more cracking and peeling in the future.  Since, a textured ceiling with a latex paint will normally scrape off without too much fuss - we decided to scrape the whole ceiling and re paint a flat, non textured finish.

Before we get into the actual scraping - we first try and indentify and document pre existing conditions.  Things like previous paint splatters or smudges.  This can eliminate miscommunication after the job is complete.

And before we get into the work - it is important to seal and contain the work area so that dust does not get all over the house.

Now, we can start the messy job of scraping and skim coating the ceiling so we can paint.



To be continued...